Dorothy Liebes, the “Mother of Modern Weaving”
Ross Hubbard | Jul 21, 2023
Dorothy Liebes was a leading 20th-century weaver and textile designer. Deeply curious and innovative, she pioneered the production of affordable, mass-produced textiles that maintained a handwoven appearance.
In a captivating feature recently published in the esteemed Smithsonian Magazine, the spotlight is cast on the extraordinary life and accomplishments of Dorothy Liebes, celebrated as the “mother of modern weaving.” Though her craft primarily involved fabric creation, her influence stretched far beyond, leaving an indelible mark across multiple realms of design that continue to resonate to this day.
Dorothy Liebes (standing) had two studios in San Francisco before moving her business to New York City. Dorothy Liebes Papers, Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution
Liebes in her Powell Street studio, photographed by Louise Dahl-Wolfe in 1938 © Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents
The Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York City is currently hosting a remarkable exhibition titled “A Dark, A Light, A Bright: The Designs of Dorothy Liebes,” which offers a comprehensive retrospective of her illustrious five-decade career characterized by vibrant colors and fruitful collaborations.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Liebes’ life was her close association with the renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright and his wife Olgivanna.
Their connection was so profound that Liebes found it necessary to expand her studio space to cope with the numerous textile orders for Wright’s interior projects. In Liebes’ unpublished memoir, she wrote about her relationship with Wright, “I best like looking to the future, and I am sure that is what Mr. Wright did, because he was always trying and thinking up new ideas. I used to watch him in wonder at the way he would spout out all kinds of new ideas. Wonderful visions.”
Dorothy Liebes showing a textile to Olgivanna Lloyd Wright at Taliesin West
Dorothy Liebes at Taliesin West
The bond between Liebes and the Wrights began when Wright approached her, imploring her to provide a loom to Olgivanna, who was grieving deeply after the heartbreaking loss of her daughter and grandchild. This act of compassion not only cemented their friendship but also set in motion a series of creative collaborations that would have a profound impact on the world of design.
Throughout her career, Liebes demonstrated an unparalleled flair for merging art and functionality in her textile creations. Her innovative designs not only adorned high fashion and commercial clothing but also became integral elements of architectural projects, elevating the aesthetics of various spaces. Even the automotive industry experienced the touch of her artistic prowess, as her textile designs found their way into the interior of automobiles, adding an air of sophistication to the driving experience.
Dorothy Liebes demonstrating to members of the Fellowship at Taliesin West
Installation photo of “A Dark, A Light, A Bright: The Designs of Dorothy Liebes.” Photo: Elliot Goldstein © Smithsonian Institution
The exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Dorothy Liebes. It showcases her trailblazing work, exemplifying the breadth of her artistic vision and the impact she had on shaping the world of design in diverse and profound ways. As visitors traverse the exhibits, they are taken on a journey through Liebes’ remarkable life, unveiling the colorful tapestry of her creative genius and the lasting influence she wielded across the realms of architecture, interiors, fashion, and beyond.
